Nijo Castle: Witness the Power of Tokugawa Shoguns

Grand, powerful shoguns. The military lords that once ruled Japan with an iron fist. Their authority and political power still echo through the huge halls and expansive rooms of Nijo Castle, showcasing visitors the power they once had over the Land of the Rising Sun.

Built as a residential place of noble gathering for the Tokugawa Shoguns in the Edo Period, Nijo castle, aka Nijo jo castle in Kyoto, is a fine piece of traditional royal Japanese architecture and an important piece of Japanese history.

It was in these very rooms where multiple significant incidents that changed the course of Japan’s future occurred. In this castle, the Edo Period marked its end as Tokugawa Yoshinobu (the 15th Shogun) transferred the political power back to Emperor Meiji which began the Meiji era.

Because of its historical significance, Nijo jo got its Unesco World Heritage tag in 1994.

View of Nijo Castle’s East Side from the Watchtower Photo Credit: AWO

With beautifully maintained Edo gardens, expansive rooms featuring detailed Japanese paintings on its walls and life size replicas of the shogun and his nobles, Nijo Castle is one of the best things to do in Kyoto and definitely the best castle in Kyoto to visit during your trip to this traditional prefecture.

The castle stands today as a historic site, reflecting the grandeur and power of the Tokugawa shogunate during the Edo period. Foreign travellers are guided thanks to English tablets on most rooms in the Nijo Castle meaning you get a detailed knowledge and learning of what this place of authority and power once was.

We recommend getting an electronic Nijo castle ticket so you can skip the long queues where people pile up to buy the tickets in front of the gate and go directly to Nijo castle instead. We also recommend buying a combo nijo castle + ninomaru palace ticket so you can see the main attraction of the palace.

Home of the First Shogun of the Edo Period

If you want to experience what the power of a Japanese warlord was, then Nijo Jo Castle is the place to be as it belonged to Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo Period. Tokugawa Ieyasu brought over 260 years of peace and prosperity after the country suffered a long period of war and bloodshed under the hands of Oda Nobunaga, who sought to unify all of Japan under him.

Tokugawa began the construction of the castle in 1601 shortly after he established his shogunate. After completion, the castle stood as a demonstration of the shogunate’s power and influence and became the main residence of Tokugawa as well as a place to conduct business and ceremonies whenever he visited Kyoto.

The entrance to Kyoto Nijo jo Castle Photo credit: Ameena Navab
The entrance to Kyoto Nijo jo Castle Photo credit: Ameena Navab

Tokugawa and his descendants used the castle as a place to host receptions for visiting nobles and politicians which included foreign delegates and those from the imperial court.

Down the line, Nijo Castle played a very significant role in history as it became the place for Meiji Restoration. In 1867, Tokigawa Yoshinobu, descendant of Ieyasu and the last of the shogun announced the return of the political power from the shogunate to the Emperor Meiji, marking the end of the Edo Period and the beginning of the Meiji era.

Visitors today can see the very room where this transfer of power took place inside Nijo Castle.

Grand Designs

As a residential home belonging to one of the most famous shoguns in Japanese history, Nijo Castle is grand in its architecture from its gates and gardens to the ceilings and floors. The Karamon Gate is one such example. The castle welcomes its visitors through the Karamon Gate, an intricately designed gate made with cypress wood and gold. The entire structure is decorated with detailed wood carvings, including motifs of peonies, dragons, and other creatures. These paintings are symbolic – representing strength, prosperity, and the shogunate’s authority. Hence, this entrance was only reserved for the Shogun.

But the gate is just the beginning to what the inner chambers and rooms hold. Nijo jo Castle’s interior is decorated with lavish fusuma and byōbu paintings by Kanō school artists. These artworks depict nature scenes and are enriched with gold leaf, enhancing the light within the rooms and conveying messages of power and harmony.

The palace also features beautifully crafted ceilings, ranging from coffered designs with detailed carvings to simpler exposed wooden beams, each contributing to the serene and majestic atmosphere of the castle.

Ninomaru Palace

The Ninomaru Goten Palace, the centerpiece of Nijō Castle, is the most important structure of the palace and is designated as a National Treasure. The Ninomaru palace is one of the sole surviving palaces among the few remaining castles in Japan and is a stunning example of Edo-period architecture and the shoin-zukuri style

Not only is the Ninomaru Palace adorned with beautiful interior paintings and decor, the shogun’s throne is located here as well. Known as the “Ohiroma” or “Great Audience Hall,” this room was where the shogun would meet with high-ranking officials, daimyo, and imperial envoys. The throne room is divided into two sections: the shogun’s seat (upper section) and the audience area (lower section). The shogun’s seat is elevated on a platform, signifying his authority and power.

The room is adorned with lavish details, including gold leaf-covered sliding doors (fusuma) and walls, which are decorated with vibrant paintings of tigers and pine trees—symbols of strength and longevity.

The Ichinoma Room (upper chamber) and Ninoma Room (lower chamber) is where Tokugawa Yoshinobu transferred power back to the Meiji Emperor.

Life-size Replicas of the Nobles

Life size replicas of the nobles and shogun seen at Ninomaru Palace (Nijo Castle Inside)

Unlike most historic castles where the rooms are empty and devoid of people of that time, Nijo Castle has a unique element that gives it life – life size replicas of the shogun, his nobles, and servants that once occupied the Ninomaru palace. Along with the shoguns, these statues represent other key figures from the Edo period, providing visitors a vivid door into the past.

The statues are dressed in period-appropriate clothing, including the elaborate robes and armor worn by the shoguns. They are often depicted in scenes that illustrate important moments in the castle’s history, such as the shogun receiving dignitaries or overseeing affairs of state. It’s almost like seeing real-life stills of Japanese-historic movies.

The attention to detail in these statues, from the lifelike facial expressions to the intricate textures of their garments, helps bring the history of Nijō Castle to life for visitors, offering a more immersive understanding of the era and the people who once walked its halls.

Clever Traps

With the Nijo castle and its Ninomaru Palace holding such beauty, you wouldn’t think that it contained booby traps. Seamlessly integrated into its design, one of Nijo Castle’s most famous and clever features is it’s “nightingale floors”.

These wooden floorboards chirp like a bird when walked upon, warning the residents of the castle that there’s an intruder among them. The sound is produced by metal clamps beneath the floorboards that rub against nails when weight is applied. This ingenious feature was meant to alert the residents of possible danger, making it nearly impossible for anyone not knowing about the trap to move stealthily through the palace.

A Traditional Tea House

Japanese traditional tea (Freepik)

For tired travellers who want to make a brief pause and refresh themselves before continuing their journey in Kyoto or the rest of Nijo, Waraku-an tea house, located within Nijo jo castle, is a perfect pit stop to give your legs a rest and sip on some traditional matcha tea.

While sitting down in the traditional Japanese way on this tatami mat, low-foot table tea house, you can enjoy not just the tea and wagashi (Japanese sweet confectionary) they serve you but also the views of the lovely Nijo Castle imperial garden.

The tea house is strictly reserved for guests who will order from their menu so if you’re not planning to order their tea, you will be restricted entry into the space. That said, Waraku-an is quite a relaxing place at the end of your Kyoto Nijo jo exploration, so make sure to have a sip of their tea before making your way out of the castle.

Four-season Spectacle

Whether you’re going off season or in season, Nijo castle will give you the season special spectacle. Come summer (June – August), the place is known for its weeping trees, giving a dramatic effect to the evergreen summer scenery surrounding the Nijo Castle garden.

During Spring (March – May), the very popular cherry blossom spectacle turns the castle grounds pink with its 300 fluttering cherry blossom trees. Until late March, you can also witness the beauty of 100 plum trees blooming in the southwestern part of the castle.

In the months of Autumn (September to mid December), Japan turns into gorgeous colors of crimsons, oranges and yellows thanks to the country’s fall foliage and Nijo Castle is no different. The garden turns into crisp yellow leaves, orange hues and red momijis.

If you want to see what nature’s white beauty would look like, head to Nijo Castle during the winter months. Between December and mid-April, amidst the cold chills and snow-covered treetops, you can witness the 400 blooming camellia trees of 90 varieties, which have been planted since 1953.

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The Toki No Kane bell tower in Kawagoe Photo Credit: Ameena Navab

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