Stretched for miles within the expanse of the Kyoto Shimogyo Ward lies a gigantic temple that’s often overlooked for Kyoto’s more popular touristry attractions. Blending with the modern streets yet keeping its history intact, the Higashi Honganji temple stands proud and strong with its numerous humungous gates and several dozen entrances.
The temple is so huge that it’s divided across multiple blocks of the street. In fact, it’s so huge that the temple’s garden is outside of the walls on another part of the street, making Higashi Honganji one of the biggest temple in Kyoto.
Known as the “Place of the Original Vow,” Higashi Hoganji and Nishi Honganji had its power in both architecture, religion and politics.
Image: (Left) the main entrance to Higashi Hongaji temple. (Right) Part of the temple ground seen from the Founder’s hall Photo Credit: AWO Staff
Just a 10-minute walk away from Kyoto station, Higashi Honganji is one of the most underrated places in Kyoto and often see very less tourist even during the country’s busiest times. The temple is known to boast the largest halls and wooden structures in the world as well as beautiful paintings from the time of Oda Nobunaga – the one man that united Japan to its current state today.
Even though Higashi Honganji repeatedly encountered tragedies throughout its history, with fires on four different occasions, each time the community concentrated came together and rebuilt the two halls without reducing its grandeur and only increasing it.
One part of the temple, the Nishi Honganji, is located a couple minutes walk away from the entrance of Higashi Hoganji. Nishi Honganji is the head temple and has its own beautiful halls and gardens.
Image: (Left) The bridge that connects to the entrance of Nishi Hoganji from the street. (Right) AWO journalist Ameena Navab seen in front of Nishi Hoganji temple Photo Credit: AWO Staff
So whether you’re searching for things to do near Kyoto Station or seeking authentic Japanese experiences, Higashi Honganji and Nishi Honganji is one of the best temples in Kyoto where you can take gorgeous images, wander amongst its massive tatami-floored prayer halls and spend some time in its quiet tranquility.
Note: Higashi Honganji doesn’t have info plates or descriptions of the buildings’ significance so we recommend getting an audio guide so you can learn and truly experience the history of the temple as you visit.
The Biggest Wooden Roof In The World
Higashi Honganji’s exterior design might look simple but the temple’s main hall known as the Goei-do or Founder’s Hall is the biggest wooden structure in the world. Huge pieces of timber were hauled from the snowy mountains in Japan during the 1600s and pulled their way till Kyoto.
While the Founder’s Hall suffered damages from fire, it was rebuilt in 1895 to its original form with all its grandeur and size. The interior boasts 90 pillars that supports a massive high ceiling and a gold chandelier brilliantly lit in the middle. The tatami-matted floors are still in use for prayers and special occasion.
Photography isn’t allowed inside the halls but you can head to various other humungous and intricately decorated prayer halls for photos and explorations.
Amida Hall
Image: (Left) The beautiful exterior decoration of Amida Hall (Right) The pillars at the entrance of the hall Photo Credit: AWO Staff
A great hall that is spectacular to see and experience, the Amida Hall in Higashi Honganji is the main worship hall that was first constructed in 1760. After the terrifying fire in the 1890s, the hall, like all other structures at Higashi Hongaji, was rebuilt in 1895. It is said that parishioners from all over Japan donated hair ropes (made from human hair) and it was mixed with hemp to use in the construction of the hall.
Amida Hall is also significant as it’s central altar has enshrined an image of Amida Buddha, who is believed to save all those who call on him for help.
Nishi Honganji
Image: (Top Left) The main hall at Nishi Honganji temple in Kyoto (Bottom Left) The chandeliers hung on the hall’s ceiling with the calligraphy of the then emperor hung behind it (Right) Nishi Honganji temple ground seen from inside the prayer hall Photo Credit: Ameena Navab
Part of the huge Higashi Honganji temple, the Nishi Honganji (West Hoganji) is another spectacular religious architecture just a 5-minute walk away from the main Higashi gate. This temple was built in 1591 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi after the sect’s former head temple in Osaka was destroyed by Oda Nobunaga.
Designated as a UNESCO world heritage site, Nishi Honganji is the head temple of the Jodo-Shin sect which has over 10,000 subtemples across the country and 200 temples overseas. This makes Nishi Honganji not just significant in history but also in religion and politics.
Shosei-en Garden
A place to experience in the seasons of autumn and winter, the Shosei-en Garden (just a few blocks from the east of Higashi Honganji) stands as a traditional Japanese garden from the 1600s. With a rich array of trees and flowers, Shosei-en is a tranquil and beautiful piece of nature that can be visited all year round.
That said, it is especially beautiful during the Plum Orchard season in February, cherry blossom season in Spring (March-April), Purple Wisteria in May and the popular autumn foliage season in November. The garden is also a great place if you want to have a professional photography experience in Kyoto in a traditional Japanese setting.
One of Shosei-en’s trademark structure was its covered bridge. This bridge was first built with cypress bark back in 1884 and looked extremely different than how it did now. The bridge had a bright vermilion balustrade and arched design complete with golden lanterns hung on it to light the way for visitors after sunset. After the fire in 1858 destroyed the bridge, it was rebuilt to its current state.
The 400 year-old Miracle Tree
If you make your way to the temple during late November, right as you step into the grounds of Higashi Honganji (the entrance of the Founder’s Hall), you’ll be greeted by the sight of a huge, vibrant yellow gingko tree. While it might look like just another pretty tree, this gingko has seen and heard more of history than any of us ever have.
Standing for over 400 years, this gingko is believed to be a miracle tree that helped contain the fire that almost destroyed Higashi Honganji. Legends says that when the temple caught fire, the tree leaves rained down the temple with water and helped contain the fire that caught the temple.
If you visit the temple from mid-late or sometimes even early December, you’ll be lucky to see the tree in its huge crown of golden leaves wavering in the wind.
The Shinsengumi Training Grounds
One of the most elite and notable police force in Japanese history, the Shinsengumi has its connection with the temple. Located in the east part of Nishi Honganji, stands the Drum Tower. This tower has ancient temple drums that came from the Saidaiji Temple in Nara. The drums were struck to let the monks know the time of the day. The Shinsengumi used the Drum Tower as the base when they utilized the temple’s grounds for training.
Exhibits
To get a glimpse of how the gigantic Higashi Hoganji came to be, take a walk across the wooden walkway that connects the Founder’s Hall to the Amida Hall. This walkway is lined with 19th century artifacts and tools that went into rebuilding the temple after the massive fire broke out.
You’ll be able to see large wooden sleds as well as tools that were used to transport lumber from the high mountains of Japan to the lowlands of Kyoto. The exhibits also tell a story as one of the miniatures depict the workers overwhelmed by an avalanche as they try to transport the timber.
Another exhibit that you can see is the ropes of human hair coiled in a glass case. Female devotees cut of their silky tresses to help create gigantic ropes that hauled the massive pillars into place in the temples, showcasing the unity of the people and the rulers.
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